Button Dies on My Mad Catz TE


The other night, I was playing Marvel vs. Capcom 3 online. I was running with my main team of Wolverine/Storm/Sentinel when something went awry: nothing happened when I hit the Sentinel button. Sure enough, my right trigger button on my Mad Catz TE had died.

Though I’ve had some bad experiences with fightsticks breaking in the past, the Mad Catz TE is a tank. I put in close to 1,000 hours into that fightstick on games like Super Street Fighter IV, Marvel vs. Capcom 3 and Mortal Kombat. Along the way, I ruined thousands of people’s days with my skills behind that controller. As much as I wanted to think nothing would ever happen to it, the reality is it was amazing that nothing had happened sooner.

Unlike the entry-level fightsticks I’ve had in the past that broke, simply tossing out this TE and buying a new one isn’t an option. Mad Catz TE fightsticks are very expensive and very hard to come by in my country. Simply buying a new one will likely cost me close to $200. They’re also built in a way to make the replacement of buttons a relatively cheap and easy process. That is, assuming it’s the button itself that is broken. If something is wrong with the wiring or the PCB board, then that’s another can of worms I don’t want to go into right now. The major stumbling block is that I’m a complete tool when it comes to using…tools. I would feel a lot more comfortable with paying someone to fix it rather than having myself give it a shot.

I’ll do everything in my power to keep that fightstick alive, as it’s a wonderful piece of kit worth maintaining. It also have some sentimental value to me, as it was a birthday gift to me from my girlfriend Steff. I haven’t quite decided how I’m going to approach fixing it, but I’ll be sure to write about whatever process I take from here!

5 thoughts on “Button Dies on My Mad Catz TE

  1. Josh July 20, 2011 / 9:43 AM

    You have to open up that puppy and re distribute the button’s sensory transition function, it’s like a rubber button that has to go all the way down for the controller to tell that you want to perform an action and you have to make sure you wedge something thick like folded paper or cardboard but not too thick or else it will get stuck. If that’s not the problem then it may be something to do with the wiring, I know I don’t need to help you there, if you still find yourself in a pickle check out Youtube, it helped me fix my PS2 controller(s), 6 times!

    • Jett July 20, 2011 / 10:36 PM

      Though I’m sure the underlying concept of how a PS2 and a TE button works is the same, I’m fairly certain the execution of that concept is different. Each button is an enclosed unit and you can’t really take the button apart to fix it in that manner, at least to my understanding.

      http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-30mm-Snap-In-Buttons_c_176.html

      I work relatively near a store that sells Sanwa buttons. I’ll pick one up and try to install it.

      • Josh July 21, 2011 / 8:19 AM

        I see.

  2. jason August 17, 2011 / 12:00 PM

    This is actually a common problem with the pcb. If its no longer under warranty, most people switch the wiring for lb and rt. Usually both triggers stop working. Ive had it happen to my te twice. Usually disconnecting and reconnecting to my 360 temp fixed it. If your rt stopped all together, check all your wiring.

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